Ecuador & The Galápagos Islands 2022
Sunday 17th April. I meet Ashleigh at the hotel in Hounslow; we have dinner (cardboard flavour pizza and burger with a Coke and a diet Coke) before settling down for the night. It has been a little while since we saw each other last and we have lots to catch up on. The hours fly by and it is midnight before we know it. “Shall we at least try to sleep?”, the countdown to wake up begins. I shower, repack and we are ready for our taxi to the airport.
Monday. Early morning flight. It still doesn’t feel real, or that we are actually going. It’s almost two years late but we are checking in our bags and collecting our boarding pass. We are met with a ‘new starter’ who’s closing line of “don’t panic, I’m not panicking, your bag will be fine” wasn’t very reassuring. Ashleigh just needs to remember to not panic. Security. Take off. Short flight to Amsterdam and a quick transfer before being back in the air and on our way. Plenty of sleep and aeroplane food, we make ourselves comfortable and settle in for the duration. Time differences mean that we land and it is still Monday. Exhausted, jet lagged and aware of altitude changes, we are in Quito; it’s time for a shower, dinner, and an early night (a common theme that we are to become very much aware of). Stay at Hostal de La Mancha.
Tuesday. Day one of the tour and having met some of the group, and Esteban at dinner last night, we begin with a Kickstart Meeting. Itinerary and add-ons explained and booked and we are ready to explore Quito, the city nicknamed the ‘light of America’. Quito is built on ancient Incan ruins and it was the first city declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. A visit to the Intiñan Museum, where the Equatorial line divides the hemispheres and the shrunken head ritual is explained. The place where eggs can (sometimes, not by me, but by Ashleigh) be balanced on a nail, water down the plughole is changed by the Coriolis force and walking along the equator line is trickier than it should be. A reward for taking part in the challenges… chocolate (and a certificate if you’re an egg master). Pure Ecuadorian chocolate; we learn the history and taste test the beans. It’s on to the Old Town, with a drizzle of rain and first stop is Basílica del Voto Nacional, the largest neo-Gothic church in South America. The central nave is surrounded by 24 small chapels, each dedicated to a province of Ecuador and the gargoyles that adorn the façade all represent animals that are endemic, including tortoises, iguanas, armadillos and condors. A short walk through the town, past the guarded Palacio de Carondelet to Fundacion Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, considered one of the finest examples of Spanish Baroque architecture in South America. No photographs allowed. Quito is overseen by The Virgen de El Panecillo which stands on a hill in the centre of the city, visible from almost everywhere. Tonight’s activity is a tour of three micro-cervecerías in Quito; starting with SINNERS, taste beer, ale, lager and stout. “We’re going to sit over there”. Party games, sympathy prizes and the second early night at Hostal de La Mancha.
Wednesday. A relatively prompt start sees bags packed and loaded on the coach, heading for Guango Lodge, we leave Quito. A brief stop at Guango Lodge, bird sanctuary, meeting Bertie the bird and watching hummingbirds come and go from the feeders. Are they hummingbirds? A quick stop for lunch and Ashleigh’s face is a picture when her ‘spaghetti’ meal arrives. Not a meal I will forget in a hurry. Back on the coach to Tena and it is straight to the Rafting office. Bags stay on the coach. Alex, our rafting guide, takes us white water rafting on the Upper Napo river, we quickly decide that we aren’t going to tip (similar themes to Africa’s Zambezi… if we tip, we tip). A relatively steady paddle down the river with some exciting rapids along the way, we make it to the ‘beach’ without falling in the river. Alex speaks about his family history as well as the mining industry and the damage to the river banks; people all around the world trying their hand at gold-mining at the sacrifice of the river. Protests by the locals and the government eventually listened, the miners were made to move on. Banana bread and jugo on shore before arriving at Selina Amazon Lodge, change for dinner out (unfortunately the sloth was ‘seeing the vet’) and an early night.
Thursday. Breakfast is included… bread and eggs labelled as ‘Americano’ on the menu. It’s the day for the Amazon Rainforest tour and we can’t wait. We meet James in Archidona/Cotundo for the hike through the rainforest, learning about various plants and customs along the way; finding fresh water in the trunk of the tree and drinking it from a ‘traditional’ plastic cap, eating ants, and tearing long strips of grass to be crowned Queen of the Jungle. Crown firmly on head, we continue to the waterfall. Las Cascadas de San Jacinto; here it is possible to walk behind the falls and swim in the pool. James uses berries to create a face paint, a sunshine for Ashleigh and a sunrise/sunset for me. The Sacha Waysa Community prepared a fish supper for lunch with yucca, plantain and spicy sauce, before the event that we all (mainly, Esteban) have been waiting for. Football, or soccer, against the children. Esteban is desperate to set the record straight, the children won the previous match and so it was down to us to take victory. A brief spell on the pitch before our interests fell elsewhere and we spend the ‘second half’ on the wing. The children are excited to receive the goodies that we brought, after a little game, they were challenged to remember a name and where that person is from before choosing their gift. “Mi nombre es Hayley y soy de Bristol”. Gifts with their new owners, it is time for James to take us caving. We drive to Jumandi Caves and after suiting up, with helmets, wellington boots and flash lights, we’re ready to go. Dark, wet, but weirdly beautiful; stalagmites hanging from the ceiling, stalactites rising from the floor and in places they join together (and make broccoli?!). Dinner and a show before returning to the room, sorting bags for an early morning wake up and rudely interrupted by a sneaky spider on the door. A group text for help, two spider removal volunteers later and tucked in, we are safe to sleep.
Friday. The longest day of the trip. Or is it? 530AM start for bird watching. A short drive to Laguna Paikawe, with James, and into a long boat. A relaxing float along the river, through reflected landscapes, with spider monkeys, tamarin monkeys and various bird species playing in the trees above. Breakfast sorted, and it is bread and eggs again, with strawberry jugo. On board the coach, and we drive towards Baños, stopping en route at Miramera first and then Pailon del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron). Esteban persuades us to visit the lookout at Miramera (much to his own disapproval when he’s ushering us back to the coach because we’re holding everyone up) and we have our picture taken at each of the viewpoints. On to Devil’s Cauldron. A brisk walk through the lush vegetation, with the river and rapids on the left and down the steep path leads to the first view of the waterfall. Continue over the suspension bridge and along the Isla del Pailon trail for a little soaking (heading past the waterfall) and reach the final viewpoint. After seeing the falls and double rainbows, it is time to return to the coach, back the same way, up the steep path and steps. Arriving in Baños meant feeling the first bit of warmth, well, humidity. It’s extreme time, well, after a shock NHS text; check in with family and all is okay, so it is on to Canyoning. Wetsuits, helmets and shoes on, we jump in to the party bus before jumping into the waterfalls. A short hike up the gorge at Las Cascadas de Chamana before rappelling down the first. Step, step, step, step, keeping a steady rhythm and it is into the pool at the bottom. The second challenge is to slide down the rocks; Ashleigh in the middle of a Hayley sandwich and an uncomfortable sliding surface (rocks and all) but we make it to the bottom in our usual manner with lots of laughing. A quick snack, Galak, America’s Milky Bar biscuit, before the final waterfall. Stand on the ledge, 3, 2, 1, JUMP! Intermission, pizza at the hotel before pick up for extreme advanced zip-lining. A zip-line across the gorge of Río Verde and a bridge climb to the base of the cliff before the long climb up the ladder rungs to the top and tandem zip-line back to the start. Would recommend. Today’s activities would have fallen on Ashleigh’s 30th Birthday back in 2020, and tonight’s entertainment is something she has been waiting for(?!). Salsa at the ranch and a BBQ. We learn 4 different moves and then put them to the music before a final dance in partners, and then being rewarded with the BBQ. Trying Guinea Pig (a local delicacy) with rice, chicken and vegetables. After the BBQ, they let the dogs out. 6 dogs came bounding around the corner to say hello, so cute! The night ended with a free shot at Leprechaun Bar – Amaretto, Baileys and Cream. What a day!
Saturday. We’re up early and ready for Horse Riding and meet José and the horses, Ying and Maria. A bit of background to Ying… he doesn’t like other horses or people. My kind of horse (ha!). After making our way through the town, trying hard to not kick wing mirrors off of cars before getting to the ‘countryside’, the Andean hills at the base of the Tungurahua volcano. A few wise words… ‘as we go up the hills, the horses will canter, enjoy it and if it is too fast shout José’. The first canter, and after what felt like a really long time and not knowing when it would stop, I definitely panic and shout JOSÉ! Phew. Ying is wild… at the top of the hill, he has a psycho moment and tries to kick another horse. I think I dealt with it pretty well. We carry on up the hill and stop at a spring, the water is drinkable and naturally sparkling because of the volcano and José shows us the lava rocks from the last eruption. José swaps horses with me and the return journey is lovely, very calm and I make it back in one piece. Sore bottoms and bruises as a reminder, we go straight to (non-extreme) zip-lining. A choice between 6 zip-lines or a bit of variety, as a group we choose the latter and we get to cross bridges, climb up ladders and zip-line across the gorge. “OiiiiiiiI! He’s motion sick” belted across the gorge made us laugh, so unexpected. I had the first banana milkshake of the trip during lunch, which was delicious but I was unaware that it would set a precedent and Ashleigh had the best meal so far… Spaghetti Bolognese! Esteban books a Party Bus (!) to take everyone to the End of the World. Beautiful views of the Tungurahua volcano and Baños below, take the opportunity to try the End of the World swing. Shaky legs and photo opportunity taken, it is time for dinner before packing our bags.
Sunday. The last full day on mainland Ecuador, and it begins in the absolute best way. A short transfer to El Refugio, bikinis and robes on, and a full body massage finishing with hot lava stones. Downstairs, we stepped into hot steam boxes, with eucalyptus under foot and a temperature adjustable control, interspersed with cold water plunges and finishing with a ‘jet wash’ cold shower. Quick shower, a volcanic mud mask and a chunk of watermelon before getting back on the coach and driving back to Quito. Games on-board (quiz and treasure hunt) and Ashleigh being injured again, we’ve made it back to the big city. Starving and time to spare, we venture out to find a familiar favourite. McDonalds. I mean you should always try McDonalds when you’re on holiday, right? A ‘last night’ (second) dinner with the group, some are finishing their trip here, and an early night is in order (surprise, surprise).
Monday. Island life is incoming. As long as we get there. Early start, we make it to the airport and Esteban fills in the Galápagos Transit Card whilst we try to check our bags in. Told that my bag is ‘excessive’ weight (there is no way that it is), I pay the $15 fee. Time is running out and the plane is being held for us… we scurry through security and make it. Just. I am so excited. We are going to the Galápagos. A short flight, and we’ve landed. Through ‘passport control’ and luggage scanned again, we are taken to meet the Naturalist Guides. Coach, to a ferry to a boat, and we arrive at Santa Cruz Island. We drive to Reserva El Chato and meet Danny and Carlos, the Naturalist Guides who will accompany us during the Galápagos trip. A walk through the lava tunnels first, learning how the tunnels were formed before getting up close with the Giant Tortoises and seeing the fruits of the island, papaya and guava. Lunch and a walk around Puerto Ayora, we have an hour until our boat to Isabela. Ashleigh and I decide to sit on the pier; on the way, we spot a Marine Iguana, the first of many Galápagos animals. There are animals galore, Sea Lions sleeping on benches, Black Tip Sharks, Sting Rays, Sally Lightfoot Crabs and a Sea Turtle, absolutely unreal. Two-hour boat journey to Isabela Island, just in time to see the sun set over the water. Absolutely beautiful hotel, with balcony doors opening onto the beach and a lovely pool setting. It’s time for a briefing ahead of dinner and a chance to try on a wetsuit (and get laughed at by Danny and Esteban, not embarrassing at all). Ashleigh and I sit bang in the middle of the table at dinner (delicious seafood pasta) and opposite Danny and Carlos; lots of listening to conversations and laughing. Ashleigh decides “I’m in my favourite place with my favourite person”.
Tuesday. Watching the sunrise and breakfast complete, we are ready for Sea Kayaking and Snorkelling. Completely in sync, Ashleigh and I have become ‘champions of the sea’. After spotting Penguins, Sea Turtles and Blue Footed Boobies, it was my turn to be injured. Trying to be cool and standing up far too fast (being completely unaware of my surroundings) I bumped my head on a tree knot. Straight into wetsuits and ready to snorkel (with a bit of a headache). Marine Iguana and Sea Lions swimming alongside us, the water is relatively warm. Danny leads the snorkel and points out Sting Ray below us. A little further and Ashleigh asks if I’ll take a photo, first try wasn’t great so just as Danny shouts “Girls you’re in a current”, we have a second go. Underwater, we are both pushed toward the rope and I have somehow lost a flipper! It’s gone. I can’t swim without it so it is Danny to the rescue. Sticking my foot out of the water and hollering “my flipper has gone”, I have never been more embarrassed. Danny swims to retrieve my flipper as Ashleigh and I hold on to the lifebuoy. Back on land, my poor circulation has flared up and I have somehow cut my foot. What a day. Free time and Ash and I decide to sunbathe (despite several warnings), watch Sea Lions play and two boys making sand-balls. A giant pizza for lunch (which we share with Danny for saving our lives) and we jump into the pickup truck to go to see the Flamingos and Giant Tortoises. Slightly pink legs from earlier sunbathing and Danny decides to tell the group “We can see two Flamingos here already”. A walk back along the beach to Sunset Bar, the perfect place to watch the sun going down before a shower and dinner.
Wednesday. Sunrise walk back to try and find more Flamingos than yesterday and ‘the dream shot’ before another two-hour boat ride back to Santa Cruz Island. Lunch and another milkshake, we are ready for a beach day. Beautiful blue skies and a hike to Tortuga Bay. Flying Pelicans, Marine Iguana and volcanic rocks, set amongst blue sky, white sand and crystal clear azure water. This is paradise. A swim, a little sunbathing and being the influencers we are, when we decide to walk back so does everyone else. Dinner tonight is at Bahia Mar, located on the water edge with a spectacular view and serving beautifully cooked seafood. A nice mix of people and a peaceful dinner. We walk to the pier to see the Black Tip Sharks feeding before an early night.
Thursday. Breakfast in Santa Cruz, eggs, bread and jugo and news of military presence in Guayaquil because someone has been ‘executed’. It doesn’t matter today because… Galápagos! Before we leave Santa Cruz, we visit the Charles Darwin Foundation (Research Centre) and learn about Lonesome George and Super Diego, visit the gift shop and have our passports stamped. We walk ourselves back to the pier, see pelicans in a queue at the fish market and board the boat to San Cristóbal (Danny and Carlos’ home island). Most important things first, and we have chicken wings and sushi for lunch which is absolutely delicious. Meet at Galakiwi to go to the highlands at La Soledad (first glance of Kicker Rock) for a mammoth bike ride down through the green carpet of vegetation that covers the island. Cycle through El Progresso towards La Lobería, finish the day snorkelling with Sea Turtles and Sea Lions and watch the sun begin to set on the beautiful island. Walk back to the bikes and take on board advice, “nothing matters when you’re in the Galápagos” and cycle back into town (stopping to say hi to Danny’s dogs) to capture the orange sky over the water before dinner.
Friday. Breakfast at the hotel, just to mix it up a little, cheese toastie and egg with jugo. The group has been split in two, and after a kerfuffle we are on the boat, sat on the top deck, on our way. Heading towards Danny’s favourite beach, Playa Cerro Brujo, we have time for sunbathing, a little walk and getting bitten by sand-flies. Back on board and lunch is provided; rice, pasta, vegetables, chicken and pesto. Snorkel gear and wetsuit on, GoPro given to Danny and Vamos! Plunge into the water at Kicker Rock (or León Dormido) and start snorkelling. The underwater world here is beautiful and full of life; swim alongside Black Tip Reef Sharks, Sea Turtles and an array of tropical fish. Very choppy, deep water, big rocks and jellyfish stings, what is not to enjoy? On board, again, this time with cinnamon tea and chocolate rolls, it is time to return to shore for the next activity. Paddle boarding with Sea Lions in San Cristóbal harbour. Off-shore winds prove dangerous, especially with Sea Lions playing beneath but we’ve survived. Shower and effort made for the final evening, we go to Playa Mann to watch the sun go down (with a Coke and Diet Coke). Three hundred and thirty-three selfies later, we meet back at the hotel to go to dinner. Souvenir hunting complete and, wait for it, an early night!
Saturday. Our final morning in Paradise. Bags packed, we have free-time to spend on the beach, Playa Mann, before our flight back to mainland Ecuador. Bags checked in, no additional fee this time, and a short flight to Guayaquil. We have a little burger at the airport before finding a taxi. WOW! The heat and koi carp impress as we leave the airport and head towards our palatial hotel for the night. With little energy, we both enjoy being silent for a while. Hunger strikes and we venture out for food. The hustle and bustle of a city, after the Galápagos Islands is overwhelming and we opt for a takeaway which we take back to our room. The comfiest beds but a million noises and emotions meant a disrupted sleep.
Sunday. One last hotel breakfast… this hotel had Dunkin’ Donuts and waffles. Fuelled on sugar, we set out to explore Las Peñas. Sent in a million different directions by shouting locals we eventually make it to step #1 of 444. Up each section and past the security/police on each corner, we arrive at the top of Cerro Santa Ana. Climb the steps of El Faro de Guayaquil to the top of the lighthouse too. We walk back down the 444 stairs and along the promenade of El Malecón 2000 before taking a taxi to the airport, where we find out that Ecuador has entered a State of Emergency.
Monday. We arrive in Amsterdam, with no hope of getting through security before our flight to London is due to depart. Fate sealed, KLM have rebooked our flights, to separate destinations but we will arrive home today. 7 additional hours in Amsterdam airport, there are only two things to do… have a McDonalds, fries and a milkshake and write this journal. 845PM and we bid farewell, a very strange feeling after two weeks together. Ashleigh and I land in the UK at the same time, and have very similar experiences. Thankfully our bags have arrived too and we are happy to finally be home. What a trip!
