Borneo 2023

Saturday 8th April. As far as solo travel goes, there was a whole lot of time that I was ‘not-solo’. From the moment I arrived, I was greeted with a sign and a big smile. ‘This way please’. I was introduced to various guides and drivers and I was quickly shown where to sit, or which vehicle I’d be taking. A short journey (in mutual silence) and I’ve arrived. I’m in MY Nature Resort in Sepilok. The humidity hits and I am greeted with an orange juice and an ice hand towel. I sit and wait for Edmundo to say goodbye to other guests before he welcomes me. Edmundo says a lot but I find it hard to be listening, maybe the heat, the tiredness or a combination of the two, he asks what my plan for my time there is and I explain, I’d like some time by the pool, to go to the Rainforest Discovery Centre and maybe see the Orangutans in the afternoon as I’ve got the trip booked for the morning feeding session. Edmundo tells me the outline for meals and I smile to say thank you. My bags are taken to my room, so I follow behind. A quick shower after almost 24 hours of travelling and suncream applied, I’m into my bikini ready to spend the remainder of the afternoon by the pool. First though I follow the nature trail at the hotel, trying to get my first glimpse of wildlife. I can hear cicadas in the trees, and fish in the pond but no monkeys yet. The pool is refreshing in the humid heat so between dips, I read (or nap); suddenly I hear a growl like noise and the other side of the fencing I can see a (what’s the collective for) of macaques. My first sighting. I know to not look them in the eye, or appear threatening, so I keep my distance. As the sun sets, I go back to my room and decide to have another shower before getting sorted for the night. I make the mistake of lying on the bed and shutting my eyes. and just like that. I missed dinner.

The next morning, the couple in the lodge next door asked if I was okay and told me that Edmundo was concerned… he was looking at the pool, thought maybe I’d gone for a night walk. At breakfast, Edmundo laughs and tells me his worry… I said I slept because of the travel (and I made sure to attend every meal thereafter). I have a free day, so after breakfast, I decide to walk to the Rainforest Discovery Centre. I am told several times by Edmundo to ‘get a map’. Smiles of reassurance, I’m off. As I’m walking, several shuttle buses charge past me but it’s not 5 minutes and I’m there. Admission paid and map in hand. I start by the lake and decide this route best; walking toward the café just incase I get the courage to go and buy a bottle of water. I walk along the path and there’s a fork in the road, café to the right, Skywalk in the middle and continue left on the path. I briefly think ooh I’d like to go on the Skywalk but threads of uncertainty stream through. The platform is occupied by Malay children, and presumably their father who is washing the floor. The silver entrance doors are closed. I smile, say hello and carry on. Adventure is in my blood (pahaha) and so I opt for the suspension bridge across the lake. The loop takes me straight back around and I’m at the start. This time, I pluck courage to venture straight ahead at the Skywalk; the gates are open, the men still cleaning and children still there. I smile. Greet and say hi and proceed to follow instruction, to walk around the edge of the wet floor (a sign would have done wonders here). I smile once again when I am passed, only to clock one of the children filming me. I wouldn’t have minded had I not been wearing all black, denim shorts and oversized tee, a baseball cap and sunglasses. Who do I think I am! No, worse. Who do they think I am. and what are they going to do with a video of me. The Skywalk is high into the trees and overhead I can hear various bird squawks and see the trees rustling and moving. I arrive back just before 11AM so decide to spend time at the pool. Just after 12PM, I hear the gong. Several people have dipped in the pool and left. It’s not until Edmundo appears “Hayley, lunch”, that I realise what the gong meant. I throw my clothes on and go to eat. Sat on my corner table facing the room. It’s back to the pool for the a short while before getting the shuttle to see the Orangutans. I leave the resort with an English couple and we exchange pleasantries, and talk about our different trips and how they were going to work. When we arrive at the Orangutan Sanctuary, I leave them to explore by themselves. I wasn’t sure what to expect; the sanctuary has a walkway, where the orangutans and macaques can approach from anywhere, but they also have a nursery, where humans are the ones behind glass screens. I sit and observe the macaques eating when all of a sudden a group of juvenile orangutans appear. They are so interesting to watch; you can see each muscle work as they move and swing. I couldn’t work out if this was all there was so I stayed alongside another man watching, but everyone else seemed to clear out. I leave when the man does (and take his lead). We walk back along the boardwalk towards the exit but before we get there we are told to “wait there”. I oblige and stand puzzled, when a minute or two later, an orangutan walks towards me along the railing. I am so close to it. I follow the man down the newly opened path and we end up at the feeding platform where macaques are gathering what is left of the food (along with gibbons). I look forward to coming in the morning to see the difference and for a second chance to be that close. I decide tonight though that I will watch the Flying Squirrels, which could start anytime after 6PM, so I shower and put on long clothes (mainly to cover my fresh red sunburn but really), a little to be cautious of mosquito bites. I sit and listen to Edmundo among other guests and he is so happy when the flying squirrel perform. Just before dinner, he asks if I’d like to gong the gong. I know I’ll be embarrassed, but say yes; he offers to film it and he seems to be happy. After dinner, it’s back to my room for another shower and to sort my bags for the morning.

I bring them with me for breakfast and truth told, I am sad to be leaving MY Nature. Edmundo asked me yesterday if I ever felt scared travelling solo, and in all honesty, mainly down to his reception on Saturday, I couldn’t be more excited for this trip. Bags are on the shuttle and there are lots of people heading for the orangutans this morning. I’m told that my bags will be transferred to my shuttle after the Sun Bear Conservation. This morning, the orangutans are playful, one has put leaves on his head to replicate humans with umbrellas as there had been rain in the early hours, a baby is at the top of a long pole, eating and watching the others. I stay at the nursery for a while before making my way to the viewing platform for feeding. There is a juvenile standing with the naturalist guide helping himself to food from the seeming to never end basket. A second orangutan swings in to join him from the right, he takes his goods and disappears up a tree to eat it (with his back to everyone watching). A short time of watching and it is time to make a move. As I leave the sanctuary via the walkways, Mulu and her baby are spotted in the tree. I cross the road to the Sun Bear Conservation Centre and begin with a short talk before walking to the viewing platforms where I can see a sun bear climbing the tree before, naturally, falling asleep at the top of it. Just behind, there are 4 sun bears playing and scavenging for food on the floor. Fun fact: they are called sun bears because of the sun shaped crest on their chest. I am taken by a guide to meet the driver who will take me to Kinabatangan River Lodge, some two-hour drive away. I arrive and guests are already eating lunch. I am greeted by Marcus and offered a seat (on a table by myself) after leaving my shoes at the steps. I manage some food and when I am finished I’m shown to my room. I shower and have a little explore of the lodge before meeting Gazali who will be the river guide for our boat. At 4PM, I meet the rest of the boat, and recognise a family that had spent a night at MY Nature (and they recognise me), there are another couple – both working within University’s and a younger couple who will be leaving in the morning. 430PM, is time for the first boat trip, we head down river and spot plenty of long and short tailed macaques, a few birds and a proboscis monkey leaping from the tree. Gazali asks that everyone wears a sarong to dinner; I spend a ridiculously long time trying to tie it so it doesn’t fall down. I join the table at dinner, sitting next to the family; we talk about our backgrounds, and it’s lovely and easy. Hayley asks if I’ve met other Hayley’s, her namesake is Hayley Mills… mine the same, but chosen by my Nana. My first dinner with company; we sit for a drink after but it is quick to bed as a 530AM alarm beckons.