Argentina and Antarctica 2025

Impressions from Antarctica.

Okay. Where to start. I guess a good idea would be to replicate the style of the briefings by Fred, Expedition Leader. Let’s recap and think of the impressions from Antarctica. The voyage begins 28th January 2025, on board MS Roald Amundsen. And who is Roald Amundsen, why is he important? Amundsen was a Norwegian polar explorer, the first to navigate the Northwest Passage, the first to fly to latitude 88°N, the first to fly across the Arctic Ocean but maybe most importantly, the first to reach the South Pole. Starting from Ushuaia, as many Antarctic voyages do, the first step is to cross the Drake Passage. Infamous for Drake Shake, but a rite of passage, nonetheless. The Drake connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans between Cape Horn and the South Shetland Islands and the water within the passage forms part of the ACC – Antarctic Circumpolar Current. A display from Hourglass Dolphins along with multiple sea birds starts the adventure. A side note about the ship; on board there is a sauna, pool, two jacuzzis and an Explorer Lounge, three restaurants and a Science Centre. Cabins are equipped with all you need to be comfortable, and mine, a balcony to overlook the ocean and its treasures. Two ‘sea days’, sunset, sunrise and the voyage brings us to the Antarctic Peninsula. Opting into lectures and talks over the next days, showcase the wildlife that are likely to be seen? Some of the history surrounding the adventures of those before and fascinating personal knowledge. Art sessions on offer, painting postcards with Ashton to send home from Port Lockroy later in the journey.

31st January sees the first formations of icebergs and sea ice rolling in – and the first ‘landing’ – well, touchdown on drift ice at Hanusse Bay. A first for some of the expedition team as well as us ‘guests’. Safely back on board and it is time to get cold again as we cross into the Antarctic Circle and encounter King Neptune himself. Ladle of ice water in hand, we are blessed on our voyage. Prompt needed, just a little push and I sit on the chairs, alongside Jenni and David. One spoonful down the back (or two for me) followed by a short (again two for me) and a spoonful of cod liver oil. Dinners varying between Aune and Fredheim restaurants and a mix of cuisine and tastes. Muck boots and patches collected along with the new HX coat, and biosecurity checks complete, it is time for the first real Antarctic experience. Zodiac cruising at Red Rock Ridge (and a landing on the continent) showcasing some of the spectacular sights to be seen. The first cruising, we spot penguins – standing on an iceberg and swimming/jumping in the water. Now known to be Adélie penguins with their whole black heads and bill. Little did we expect to watch as they torpedo out of the water and on to the iceberg, like something I have only ever seen on Planet Earth, and here I am, watching it live. Not all penguins make the jump on their first try and they must return to the water for a second or third try. Not to be confused with the ‘flying penguin’, the shags, who are still black and white can take to the skies and are known to be benthic feeders. Making it ashore, on the snow-covered landing, the smell from the penguins immediately present whilst cruising in. Red covered rocks from guano, that is so bright it is visible from space, with a covering of black and white Adélie penguins and a solitary Weddell seal snoozing amongst them. Back on the ship and humpback whales are called upon by Matthew just before starting his talk for recognising whales and the species that we might see. Matthew also provided the perfect opportunity to see a Humpback breach as all guests watch out of the lecture hall window. (Safe to say, Matthew’s talk was delayed by 10 minutes). What a fab way to start February.

The second of February promises kayaking and a landing at Stonington Island; kayaking replaces the zodiac cruising for the day. Kayak gear collected and put on before an announcement overhead… kayak group E is cancelled. A late landing at Stonington allows for stretching the legs and feeling the freshness of the air. Base ‘E’ Stonington (UK) and East Base (USA) give a glimpse of the history rich site overlooking the North East glacier. Allowed an insight into the East Base as things are left, food containers and jars scattered, and documentation giving information. Stonington was occupied during the Ronne Antarctic Research Expedition (1947-1948) which included Edith Ronne and Jenny Darlington, the first two women to overwinter in Antarctica. Back on ship, dinner eaten and a few drinks whilst watching the scenery, there is the perfect end to the day... Watching Humpback whales at midnight feeding. Not long after and an early start (as the sun doesn’t really set), it was pretty at 4:19AM. We are on the way to Pourquoi Pas Island and a zodiac cruise in Bongrain Point. Chances to see more Adélie penguins, Crabeater seals and the close-up pack ice. The evening brings sailing slowly through ‘The Narrows’. The glass-like surface accompanying the pristine snow and ice-covered scenery. Whales alongside the ship and plenty of people on deck observing. Taking in each aspect of beauty in complete awe and admiration for the scale of the landscape throughout the passage.

The fourth of February, finally brought kayaking. Around Horseshoe Island, into the wind and along the bay; icebergs seen from the water, hearing the roaring melt, blue skies overhead and tiny black and white spots against the looking mountains. Later, landing on Horseshoe Island to experience another UK base full of history, artefacts and relics. What a view from the window, of the surrounding mountains and maybe one day, the bread recipe will come in handy. After a warm-up walk to the most beautiful vista, it is time to opt into the Polar Plunge, inside the Antarctic circle. Roald Amundsen’s Beach Club is open. Prepared with a towel and a stoic walk, it is into the water. Thinking only about breathing in and out, in and out (and trying to not step on any jagged rocks) and time to swim. 3, 2, 1, glide, turn and return to shore. The atmosphere immediately warm as the air dries and feelings return to the extremities. Priority for returning to the ship, a warm shower, a cup of tea and a doze on the bow beds before the cold day draws to a close. Attempting to sail through the Gullet, and there is only so far we can go before the ice becomes too thick. Turning around and travelling the ‘long way’ around Adelaide Island.

Wednesday became a day at sea, when hope of the shortcut was abandoned. Workshops, crafts, talks, books, music and cups of tea fill the day as we make our way into Plan D, no landings or cruises. Final plans set for making way to Petermann Island, another show of pack ice alongside the boat, making the most beautiful patterns against the water. Watching the second of Manuel and Cristóbal’s documentary footage, along with the ROV footage from the ocean floor, made for emotional viewing as it replicates exactly how beautiful and precious the surrounding landscape, and its waters are. Manu spoke of how it is time to learn about the ways that we can all now help to protect Antarctica for years to come. He spoke with such passion and inspiration, sharing his knowledge of the species found in the water, the plans for his project and the documentary in progress. Petermann Island is in Penola Strait in the Wilhelm Archipelago, and it is home to the Southern-most colony of Gentoo penguins; distinguished by their orange bills and white ‘headphones’. With chicks in tow. The Gentoo are active and pleased to be in and out of the water. Those that have nests and chicks are firmly planted on the rocks, feeding and desperately trying to stop the skua from stealing their eggs. We sail through the reflective and most beautiful Lemaire Channel, with lots of interest on deck towards Port Lockroy, the British Post Office where vessels will be deployed to send our postcards home, before moving on to Damoy Point.

Upon arrival, it is straight into a zodiac ready for a ‘photo boat’ cruise with Ted Gatlin, the on-board photographer. Starting in the bays – watching for penguins swimming, jumping and diving in the water, before moving around to another island – this time with grey skies as a backdrop and then further afield to find an array of seal dozing. Crabeater, Weddell and Antarctic Fur Seal. The start of a busy day amongst the wildlife. Next, is snowshoeing at Damoy Point, a loop of the headland on Wiencke Island, to see the colony of Gentoo at the top of the rocky landscape surrounded by calming glaciers. Damoy Point is home to a small wooden hut, fondly known as ‘the World’s most southerly waiting room’. A place of limbo waiting for the weather to clear for arrivals and departures by plane. Now with nesting penguins underneath, the hut has been restored to its original orange colouring. The island also provided a Beach Club. Plunge #2. This time fully dunking in the Neumayer Channel. A quick return and shower to warm up, some dinner at Fredheim and it was my time to wrap up warm and get ready to go camping on the ice and in the snow. A quick tutorial, tents pitched and a bedtime story, it is quiet, trying to hear the almost silence of Antarctica – just penguins chattering. Come the morning, the tent is dark and heavy; it has snowed through the night and the bright red tents are covered in snow. Deconstruction complete, the zodiacs are deployed to pick us up. Special ‘camper’ breakfast celebrations help to start the new day right. Another day at sea as we bypass Orne Harbour and head instead to Palaver Point for a chance to spot Chinstrap Penguins making their way up the penguin highway. Skua circling and flying in pairs, and onlooking walkers leave their poles unattended. Just a few minutes later, and the Skuas have their very own walking pole. True Antarctic weather at the top, lots of wind and snow (and the cutest pair of Penguin waddling their way back up the slope). A slippery decline back to the zodiac and a brief stop to give the penguins the right of way.

Invited, I go for dinner with Rhonda and Greg, great food and even better company as always, and a chance to revel in embarrassment as waiters begin serenading. Upstairs is the first night of the ‘Crew Band’ performances. Singalong time and sitting with Manu and Cristóbal, learning more as ever. In the morning, already up and ready, and an announcement over the system. Orca have been spotted from the bridge, at the same time as I spotted a pod from my balcony. Waves of dorsal fins and flashes of stained yellow eye patches are blended with the sounds of Humpbacks trumpeting. A few photos taken and the realisation that the moment is more than the photograph. The Orca and Humpbacks have moved to the front of the boat, at the bow. Leaving my camera, I venture out to Deck 7, the edges surrounded by lenses, cameras and people. I stand slightly back, joined by Manu, glad that Cristóbal is capturing every second in complete beauty, initially both of us in silence. Breathing in the moment where the Orcas seemed to be hunting the Humpback, and not before long sharing thoughts about their movements, where they are and laughing as everyone moves in unison to look. Watching as it plays out, a totally unique experience, highlighted through talks with Chiara and Matthew in the following days. Orca do not often hunt Humpbacks, they may ‘mob’. No-one will ever know the motivation and there is something beautiful about things just being as they are.

The final landing for the trip is Deception Island. Kayaks deployed once again in a beautiful setting. Deception Island is home to Antarctic Fur Seal dozing on the beach. It has a ‘safe’ natural harbour, only occasionally affected by the underlying active volcano. The island is the caldera of the volcano, which damaged scientific stations in the 60s. There are remnants of a whaling station with the landing being at Whalers Bay. Barren slopes and steaming beaches are combined with ash-layered glaciers. Sailing in (and out) through Neptune’s Bellows with humungous rocks on either side. The landing site route is past the seals and on to Neptune’s Window viewpoint. Photographs will not do justice to the sheer size and scale of these places. A little lost Gentoo pops up on the beach to dry his feathers after a clean. There is moss, lichen, growing amongst the black volcanic sand, making Deception Island the greenest island seen. Two days at sea, to finish the trip across the Drake, thankfully with the Drake Lake on our side (mostly). The first being Marcie’s birthday, so we all enjoy dinner together before the second of the ‘Crew Band’, this time with dancing. Cup of tea in hand as the conga line passes, guides are asked (and politely decline) to dance, and it isn’t long before Manu joins, leaving Cristóbal and I to observe. La Bamba begins and there’s no time to say no, and lots of fun. Invited to see the bridge and learn more about the systems on board, attend talks and recaps of all the things seen as well as meet the Polar Watch guest scientists too. Cristóbal and Manuel showcase an edit of their footage, and safe to say, it’s been a privilege to see it as the project develops. The final days brought quizzes, and a ‘Captain’s Farewell’, with drinks. The expedition guides shared 20 seconds of their favourite moment with a photo, which was so lovely to hear some of the things that they take away from the trip too. The photographer’s video recap was shared, and Ted has some of the most brilliant moments captured. The final evening was spent with Manu & Cristóbal, finally trying Maté, a South American herbal drink, to connect with friends. Eventually, time to say goodnight for the final time on board MS Roald Amundsen and stepping into the room, I see the moonlight reflecting on the water beyond the balcony. The moon, a full moon, and the first moon for three weeks. The morning brings breakfast with Manuel and Cristóbal and goodbyes to all I’ve been lucky enough to share the trip with. Rhonda & Greg, Marcie & David, Jenni & Mike. A brief stop in Ushuaia, just enough time to stamp passports at the Tourist Information Centre and onwards to fly to Buenos Aires. Armed with recommendations for the area, I set about a 4 hour walk of the city, in the beautiful hot sunshine. Taking in the sights, starting with the Floralis Genérica and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. Walking towards the Obelisk and on to Café Tortoni, the oldest in Buenos Aires, Puente de la Mujer and Pizzería Güerrín and finishing the evening at Floreria Atlántico, a beautiful flower shop/cocktail bar. Recommendations accomplished and reality setting in that this adventure is coming to an end. I am thankful for all I have seen, learned and experienced.

So vast, and desolate and so beautiful. It’s hard to comprehend that we’ve barely touched the surface… It’s incredibly difficult to put into words the feeling that I have. I expected to be in awe, but in reality, it is so much more. I’ve felt completely overwhelmed by how beautiful the ever-changing landscapes are. How vast they are in comparison to me. That incomprehensible feeling & knowledge that there is more to do to protect Antarctica so that it can keep feeding research, creating history & opportunities. So that we can understand more about the history of the world, the animals that inhabit there, both on land & in the precious waters. Let’s not do any more damage. There’s a quote from Sir David Attenborough that sums it up better than I ever could… “Antarctica still remains a remote, lonely and desolate continent. A place where it’s possible to see the splendours and immensities of the natural world at its most dramatic and, what’s more, to witness them almost exactly as they were, long, long before human beings ever arrived on the surface of this planet. Long may it remain so.” When asked if Antarctica lived up to my expectations, I couldn’t say it did; as I had none. I knew that I would live in a world of disbelief, every day held more than one ‘surprise’. Be that the sun hitting the mountain tops, orcas feeding, humpbacks breaching, the way the light hits the ocean, penguins with their chicks, icebergs floating past, to name a few examples from the natural world, but I didn’t expect to learn so much from the naturalist guides on board, from projects they are working on, or the history of Antarctica. Fuelled with passion & flair, delivering talks about specialist subjects, I return home with knowledge. As with all travel, knowledge & lessons are a key component. But this feels different. Antarctica has been a dream for a while & now that I am here, I long for the next.

One day, I hope to be back.