South Africa, Zambia, Botswana 2019
Sunday 26th May. I arrived in Johannesburg after an 11-hour flight from Heathrow. I step off of the plane and collect my luggage (as instructed) and re-drop it at the domestic terminal. Walking through the transfer door to find where I need to go through security and I am greeted by an African man. A friendly hello, a compulsory conversation and R300 later (again not necessarily voluntarily), I start to question what on earth I am doing here. A further 2-hour flight later and I had reached my destination, Cape Town. Luggage collected for the second time and having been to the toilet, I download the Uber app and walk to the taxi/Uber pick up ranks. Shouts of “need a taxi/want Uber?” come my way as I walk and I brush them off knowing that the Uber I have ordered will be arriving in 1 minute. A red Hyundai appears with the same number plate as on my phone and we greet each other, I’m on my way. Conversations around plans for the trips and the local areas left me feeling relaxed and at ease and not before long I was at the hotel. With a few hours before check in I sat in Mojo market, entertained by the live music and people watching, I took a walk along the promenade, spotting seals playing in the water and the overwhelming feeling of being completely alone in a different country started to slip away. The evening consisted of polite conversation with people who were starting the trip, sharing stories from home and work, as well as previous trips – learning that Ashleigh had also been on the Big Tiki New Zealand trip, we all spoke about adventure activities and I pretty much signed Ashleigh up for a tandem swing! I also finally met my roommate for the trip, Yasmin.
Monday, the tour began. It started with an exploration of Victoria and Alfred Waterfront – looking at the exhibition for Robben Island, a stop in the shops and a walk to the World Cup stadium before stopping to sit in the sun. I took my North Face lightweight coat off and placed it on top of my bag whilst I thought to take a photograph of the beautiful bay, and before I could blink my coat blew into the sky and then consequently into the water. A drop of 10ft separated it from me and I must have shouted with shock. Not only was my coat floating along the water, but it contained my purse with bank cards, ID and travel money as well as my passport (without which I wouldn’t have been able to complete any of the trip). A security guard had seen the escapade, as had a crowd which was now forming and he quickly set about helping... running to the left and returning with two younger boys and a pole. One of the boys jumped to a tyre but the coat was still out of reach. At this point I was feeling relatively calm, it was floating toward a stepped area, more in land than out to sea. Until the coat came to a stop. It had caught on a rope along the water. One of the young boys hollered to a passing boat in Afrikaans. The boat hesitated and then changed direction heading directly to the still floating/stuck coat and retrieved it with a long pole. Heading back to shore, the coat was raised to me on the pole and I received it with many thank yous and lots of embarrassment. A quick stop for lunch and a well deserved coke was needed before a bike ride around Cape Town CBD and the surrounding area of Bo-Kaap. The houses were initially for slaves – they had to remain white in colour and so after apartheid ended, they painted their houses in bright colours as a celebration of their freedom. It is also said that the houses are recognised by colour as opposed to number for street directions/addresses. The bike tour included samosas, a market trip where everything was offered to us ten times over, and a stop in an ‘English’ pub – The Fisherman’s Arms for a complimentary beer or cider (Savannah). It was then back to Mojo hotel for a quick change for dinner at Lobster and Burger. After planning outfits with Ashleigh, Alfie then decides to tell the whole bus that it is ‘really chilled’ and ‘there’s no need to dress up’… that’s that plan out the window, we both burst into laughter but agree to our plan regardless. Dinner concluded, there are two choices, go back to the hotel or join Alfie in his quest for a fun evening of Karaoke at a beer house in the city. Agreeing that we’ll give it an hour and I’ll sort an Uber for getting home, Ashleigh and I join some of the others. Choosing to drink coke felt like the worst decision we could have made (met with Alfie’s disapproving, judge-y face) but being told “it’s ok, I’m not judging” as he orders a round of Jäger for the others. Outside, Alfie brings the shots and is immediately told ‘oh no, I can’t drink Jäger’ by a couple of people. Ashleigh and I look at each other and almost reach the same decision at the same time. Needless to say it made Alfie happy and we are told “well played England”! With their Dutch courage, thoughts of karaoke are realised and conversation has turned to song choice. A big push from Alfie for Spice Girls – Wannabe (who later confessed that he had heard the song being sung on the way in and people seemed to be loving it) and it was ‘our’ turn. I say our very loosely... microphone hogger Alfie knew every word and was having the time of his life! Nothing was going to beat that moment and so Ashleigh and I decided to head back, sharing an Uber with Jeff and Tina. The four of us head out to get into the Uber and are instantly hounded by a group of men waiting outside the beer house. “Can I get you something? Any money? Here here”. Us three girls were in the taxi and Jeff was having to make sure that he was safe and he had all of his belongings. A frightening experience for Jeff more than the rest of us but eyeopening to see that the advice on going out after dark was not to be ignored.
Tuesday. After a couple of attempts to climb Table Mountain (deemed unsafe due to high winds) we head to the Cape of Good Hope, the most southern tip of South Africa. Winds had not decreased, and whilst most opted for the cable car to the top, Yasmin, Ashleigh and I decided to walk. Taking in the views around us, the crystal clear water, white sand beaches to the right, and the rocky end of the land to the left, although the climb to the top was tricky it was worth it for the panoramic views. The three of us were in agreement that it would have been silly to climb Table Mountain. Reaching the lighthouse at the top we had a short while to take in the view before heading back to the bus, and from here it was on to Boulders Beach. Renowned for its penguin colony, Boulders Beach did not disappoint… walkways through the wooded areas gave lots of sightings of penguins and their chicks and the opening on to the beach was beautiful. Penguins were coming from the sea on to the beach and feeding their chicks before bathing in the sun. The first glimpse of wildlife here in Africa. The last stop for the day was at Cape Point Vineyard, again with lovely views and 5 samples of wine (white wine being drinkable, and red, well, not) in the sun, it couldn’t get better than this! Early mornings were becoming the norm and it seemed like relatively early evenings would follow. Dinner at Mojo market did not disappoint and again, a live band!
Wednesday. A flight to Johannesburg, upon landing we met our second guide, Jesse and driver Jerol and started our long drive to Kruger. Jesse instantly impressed (as Alfie had previously) and tried his hardest to learn 12 new people’s names but little did he know that 5 had swapped. Jesse calling the wrong names was often met with a raucous of laughter (from the 5) until they finally decided to tell him. This kind of set the tone for the two days of Safari. Surviving a 7-hour drive we were welcomed with a drink at Shalati Lodge and then a buffet dinner around the fire.
Thursday. A 5am start with an outdoor shower, could hardly be grumbled at when it was the start of safari. Watching the sun rise as we entered Kruger National Park we were quickly treated to wildlife all around us. Nyala, impala, kudu, wildebeest, waterbuck and buffalo first, and then zebra, giraffes and elephants. A quick stop before continuing for the journey to lunch and the radios became very busy. Ngala spotted (lions). Lions stalking wildebeest. Everyone with binoculars and cameras ready to catch the first sight of lions in the wild. Decisions were made to push lunch back in the hope of seeing a lion hunt. Watching the chase but no catch was ideal (I don’t think I wanted the lion to kill anything whilst I was watching) but the adrenaline was pumping after all the excitement. A lunch stop, a few slices of pizza and a drink, ended with nearly being pooed on by a starling. We drove similar roads after lunch and were treated to much of the same… lions stalking a giraffe this time, but again no luck for the lions. Beginning the drive back to camp as the sun was setting was just the most serene feeling, it had been such a full day. Jesse had enjoyed sharing his knowledge of birds and mammals, Jerol had helped spot animals in the distance and we were blessed to have seen the most fantastic display of African wildlife. With plenty of baboons, monkeys and birds seen, we head back to camp for our second traditional African buffet when we come across a spotted hyena. Photographs taken and it is on to camp. Jesse had prepared us that there was going to be a quiz after dinner, paired up with a teammate from the other bus we answered 16 questions on facts that Jesse had taught. Feeling worried that the bottom 4 groups would have to take part in a forfeit, I did not want to lose. My partner and I came joint 3rd with Ashleigh with 13 points... phew. Pressure off, we could enjoy the evening. Jesse was offering star gazing, again full of knowledge and passion, he pointed out the constellations, how to find South and that we could see Jupiter. The perfect end to a busy day. Well almost, one last activity before bed. Ashleigh had brought a game called Dobble with her, and we had agreed to play, so tonight was the night. First game in, others want to join, “see, it brings people together”. However it’s not long until it’s the two of us, we end up in fits of giggles!
Friday. Day two of safari. Having been completely spoiled by sights yesterday, we were pleased to have a calm drive through the ‘bush’. Noticing the landscape and how it changes and still hearing shouts of ‘elephant’ or ‘giraffe’ frequently. Before leaving Ashleigh and I decide to donate some money to the local kindergarten via Shalati lodge. We begin the drive towards Johannesburg and our stop for an evening, dinner, daysheet planning and payments were the plan, however they were interrupted with claims of stolen money from our previous nights’ stays.
Saturday. A drive back to Johannesburg and flight to Livingstone saw us say goodbye to Jesse and land in Zambia. Straight to Victoria Falls – one of the seven wonders of the world, to see where Zambia meets Zimbabwe – whilst getting a soaking. Such a beautiful sight, seeing the ‘smoke that thunders’ and rainbows form as the curtain of water falls, looking identical to the illustrative representation that Ashleigh and I had done the evening before. Ending an awe-inspiring day with a cruise of the Zambezi, seeing hippo and elephants and talking to the locals with a few drinks, barbecue dinner and as is now typical, another sunset. Ashleigh began taking to Rhonda as I started talking with a lady – Sue – who had just completed adoption for Peggy. Peggy is 7 and quickly became as inquisitive as the 3/4 year olds at Pre-School. As I took photographs with my camera I could see Peggy watching, I invited her to come and use my camera with me and together we took a photograph of her Mum. She was so proud. Sue had told me that they’d just watched Aladdin together and because I was wearing a jumpsuit Peggy had decided I was ‘Jasmine’. Peggy began singing A Whole New World but became embarrassed with other people on the boat, and so I joined her in singing. My heart felt full. Our evening continued at Waterfront hotel watching Liverpool beat Spurs and Alfie reach fourth gear. Another conversation with Alfie and yet another round of giggles from Ashleigh and I. Alfie asked about work, getting himself all confused around Social Work thinking that Ashleigh simply taught shy people to be more social (perfect on this trip), dismissed Liverpool to my horror (resulting in “don’t look at me like a I’m a mosquito”) and explaining to Graham – the hotel owner – that “they have come for the sounds of Africa and all they are hearing are the sounds of America!” Talking about the next days adventure brought immediate panic about insurance – up until landing in Zambia I thought that it was South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana – and now that I’d paid to throw myself off of a bridge, go in a helicopter and white water raft on some of ‘the best rapids in the world’ I needed to make sure I was going to be covered. We even joked that if they could just push my body back to Zimbabwe it should be ok!
Sunday. Starting with white water rafting, the adventure began pretty early. A steep walk down the gorge saw lots of slips and trips before even making it to the water. A refreshing start to the day nonetheless. Kay Jay, our guide, asked if we wanted to tip intentionally and we all agreed that if we tip we tip but we wanted to do the extreme routes through the rapids. Following all of his instructions through rapids with names such as the terminator, oblivion, the washing machine, we stayed upright, very wet and pumped full of adrenaline! A calmer rapid was where we were able to ‘swim’ if we liked... Out of the boat and into the flowing water we quickly were thrown through the rapids and swimming like mad to get back to the boat. Such beautiful vistas all around us and back on dry land, we had to engage in the trek back to the top! Lunch, a quick shower and straight back out to the Victoria Falls Bridge. Weights checked, harnesses on and nerves kicking in, we practice our 3,2,1 step in unison. Falling feet first for 80 metres, no screaming, holding on to each other’s waist straps and bursting into laughter when the calmness of the swing began, the scariest part was the diy carabeena’d ladder climb back to the top with no supervision. But that was it. Bridge Swing, done! Dinner at Waterfront was accompanied with African dancing by a local tribe.
Monday. As with every morning, it was early, but it was beautiful. The sky had a pink tint, the river reflecting and still. A short journey to the landing pads for the helicopter ride. Opting for the game and falls flight meant that the helicopter circled the Victoria Falls, offering the most spectacular view from above, before flying through the gorge, “I’m going to try and get over the edge, but if not we’ll just turn left” as we are flying toward the steepest point of the gorge and almost turning 90 degrees (the only moment of fear). Making it over the edge, we set the route back, flying over hippos, and elephant. A piece of me has fallen in love with Zambia. It was time to cross the border by boat (a small river) to Botswana for the final stint of Safari. Passports stamped, shoes cleaned (of some description – not necessarily the ones worn for the rest of the trip) and new vehicles mounted, we are en route to Kwalape Lodge for lunch, and an hour of sitting by the pool in 28 degrees… bliss, before the final two Safari days. Chobe National Park did not disappoint. Open vehicles immediately allowed the differences to be highlighted. A short while into the park and we already spot impala and several birds. A little while further and there are elephants strolling alongside and up to the vehicle. Conversations with Sue and Tim along the way added to the African experience. Giraffes in the distance, hippos sunning themselves in the mud and buffalo gathering at the water. It isn’t long before sundown that we spot lions about to make their own journey to the water and playing along the way. We spend some time watching until a hoard of Asian travellers on a safari bus catch sight and scream/shout. The male lion asserts himself as protector and comes from behind the bush toward the bus, with teeth showing and a roar, the tourists quickly quieten down. It is on to the ‘special stay’ – a night of proper camping in the middle of Chobe National Park. A three course meal around the fire before everyone else went to bed. The clear night gave plenty of chances to see the constellations of the Southern Hemisphere, noticing the Southern Cross, Jupiter and Venus as well as various zodiac signs, and accompanied by the sounds of the wild. Elephants, lions and jackals communicating, hippos and hyena join in.
Tuesday. After a good sleep, it is another early start, and an entertaining hour watching lions parade and cubs playing before setting off for a drive through the National Park. Radio communication picked up again and before we knew it we were off… driving past an elephant we came to a stop and were told to look amongst the bush, and there sat calmly in the distance was the elusive leopard. The open road and early mornings began to take their toll, and as the wind blew, eyes started to shut. Not before long we were back at Kwalape, showered and ready to go on our final excursion, a river boat cruise on the Chobe river. Cruising between Botswana and Namibia, there are elephants on the water edge, hippos in the water and lots of other animals and birds; crocodile basking in the sun and fishermen trailing the water in row boats. A final sunset to say goodbye to Africa and a traditional buffet for dinner followed by a show, African singing and dancing.
Wednesday. 730am I had to say goodbye to Ashleigh and Alfie as they left for Zimbabwe, the most perfect morning by the pool in glorious sunshine, reflecting on the trip before flying to Johannesburg and then back home.
