Canada 2022

Saturday 23^rd July. The Canadian adventure begins at Heathrow. A little lunch, a few drinks and several snacks and we are good to go. Check-in and security were nowhere near as long as predicted. Boarding complete; it is really happening. Let’s go to Canada. No transfers, just a direct flight to Vancouver. Time for one more drink (& cheers) before settling into the film selection and a solid sleep. Arrival at Vancouver, and all fears of random ‘COVID-19’ testing were replaced with Border Control mug shots. Who made the decision to take a photograph straight after a 9-hour flight? I don’t think I ever want to see that picture again. A taxi ride takes us through Vancouver to The Belmont Hotel and we can relax. Showers complete, we decide a walk would be nice; time to stretch our legs and we head to Sunset Beach. Along the way we see multiple signs for Firework Parking but take little notice until we see how busy the beach is. Putting it together, the sun sets over the water and fireworks begin to light up the sky. What a welcome to Canada. We buy a juice on the way back to the hotel and prepare for another trip of a lifetime.

Sunday. It’s day one of the trip and as always begins with a Kickstart Meeting. An early wake up and a trip to the 7/11 for croissants and juice, we then meet in the lobby and complete trip paperwork, before boarding the bus for the next 11 days; with driver, JT and tour manager, Charlotte. As quickly as we arrived in Vancouver, it was time to leave. The first leg of the journey takes us through Vancouver city towards Whistler. We turn off the main road towards the hotel to be faced with police cordons and vehicles; unsure of what was happening, internet searches inform there has been a shooting and the plan to walk from the bus is on hold for a moment. (We later find out that the shooting is gang related and two people were killed). There is just enough time to grab a quick snack before heading off to our first add-on activity, RZR bike racing. Kitted up with helmets and goggles, Summer drives first; up and down steep hills, bumping along the stoned road until we reach a viewpoint and we swap positions. Showers at the Pangea Pod hotel, a walk to Lost Lake through the forest (in extreme heat) and a couple of cocktails on the roof terrace before a ‘family style’ dinner of flatbread and nachos and a little dance.

Monday. Early start this morning and we find our own breakfast in the form of cream cheese bagels and smoothies from Moguls Coffee Shop. Canoe along the River of Golden Dreams (Alta Lake) and try not to capsize during the windy turns. If in doubt, duck it out. Offers of ‘walking around the bends of the river’ are thrown about, which we decline and we manage to stay afloat albeit drifting into the trees every once in a while. Lunch in Whistler before meeting for the zip-line… (recommendations by Charlotte), we have Cow’s ice-cream first; Cowconut Cream Pie and Cownadian Maple followed by Zog’s Dogs Poutine. Yes, we had dessert first. Take the gondola to the summit of Blackcomb Mountain (do not get off halfway) and prepare to ride the Sasquatch zip-line; the longest in Canada and the USA, with speeds over 100kmh, and travelling over two km between Blackcomb and Whistler Mountains. Tiredness and heat sets in (and maybe a little jetlag) and it is time for a nap. 4 hours later (!) and we follow standard protocol of trying a McDonalds in each country for our ‘walkabout’ dinner and then when the sun has set, it is time to explore the Vallea Lumina experience. Old stories tell of the wondrous things that happen near Whistler. Between the trees, in the shadow of mountains, legends say there’s a hidden valley where stardust falls from the sky, filling all living things with its pure light. It’s a place that’s filled with unexpected enchantment. There’s a way to get there, but few know how to find it. Those who visit and witness its secrets remember it long after they leave. Follow cryptic radio transmissions and the lingering traces of two long-ago hikers to find the scenic trailhead where the real journey begins… This pathway leads toward a place filled with beauty, and proof that the legends of Whistler are true. Another night stay at Pangea Pod.

Tuesday. We take up the hotel breakfast offer this morning and it is delicious. Leave Whistler today for Sun Peaks but first ride the Peak2Peak Gondola. Start at the base of Blackcomb Mountain and head to the top, where Horace Morris awaits (a Hoary Marmot). Board the gondola a record breaking – obviously – 437m above the valley floor to Whistler Mountain and take in the views (360º views of Whistler village, lakes, glaciers, forests and mountain peaks), finish with the third gondola back to the village. The drive to Sun Peaks takes us through different eco-systems, into a semi-arid canyon desert. Along the way, we drive through Camloops and Lillooet, with a brief stop in the latter where we touch jade to bring luck. An hour or so of free time before dinner, means a walk around the quaint and cute village of Sun Peaks; with the sun definitely shining. Dinner is at Capones, a family style Italian restaurant and it is followed by an evening of Axe Throwing, which is exactly as hard as it looks. Lessons learnt and very hit and miss as to whether the axe hits or misses and it is finally back to Sun Peaks Hotel for bedtime.

Wednesday. An earlyish start with breakfast at 7am at Cahity Creek Kitchen and on the coach at 745am for the journey towards Jasper. JT stops briefly at Wells Gray Provincial Park and then it is on to Mount Robson Provincial Park, where he can’t help but interrupt Charlotte on the mic to tell her his thoughts about Mount Robson… “Charlotte, it looks f***ing magnificent”. The cloud-capped mountain is mostly visible and we sit to eat our lunch in awe. With elevation of 3954m, Mount Robson is the highest peak in the Rockies. We are picked up here by the White-Water Rafting guides and waivers signed, we are taken to get suited up and out on the Fraser River (BC’s longest river, to no surprise). Apprehensive but excited (I think), Summer is about to experience her first White-Water Rafting trip... grade 2 and 3 rapids and a chance to test our arm strength. I glance back just over halfway down the river and Summer is smiling. Phew. A short while after, and there is a chance to swim in the river and then be pulled back on board. Are you ready? “No”. 3,2,1 dunk! Rafting complete and no tipping, we are taken to our hotel in Jasper; The Athabasca Hotel. Checked in and showered, it’s a ‘walkabout’ dinner and our first night out in Canada. We walk through Jasper town, settling on ice-cream from Grandma’s Place before having dinner at Jasper Brewing Co. We meet the rest of the group at Downstream Lounge for cocktails, dancing and a free ski shot. A late night and it feels like home, with the lights coming on as we bolt out of the door.

Thursday. Waking up early-ish, we make use of the prime location and proximity to the grocery store to get some breakfast and snacks before the day trip to Maligne Lake, Spirit Island and later, Maligne Canyon. Aboard the boat, take in the magical views all around as we sail out to one of the most photographed spots in Canada. The island is a spiritual place for the Stoney Nakoda First Nation, who believe mountains are physical representations of their ancestors. The fact that Spirit Island is surrounded on three sides by the same mountain range is very rare and makes it particularly significant to the Stoney. Back on land, we have waffles for lunch ahead of a short drive to Maligne Canyon. Slip, slippy rocks at Maligne Canyon! Woah! Broken ankles avoided (thankfully!) and it’s down to the bottom of the canyon through the lush forest trees along the windy river, to meet JT. A free (extremely hot) afternoon, so day drinking it is; destination Earl’s Terrace Bar – approximately a 3-minute walk from the hotel. Refreshing cocktails and a combined favourite of chicken tenders help to pass some time. We make sure that we are ready for the Warrior Woman talk by Matricia Bauer and meet Charlotte. Matricia is part of the Sturgeon Lake Cree Nation and she shares stories of the stars, the lakes and creation. A truly inspirational moment; and we decide to immerse ourselves in nature in the form of a walk to Beauvert Lake. Fears of seeing bears were replaced by lots of loud laughing (and most likely swearing) as we both walk, pretty much like owls with our heads turning full circles every two minutes, (a little petrified) to the lake. Arriving a little sweaty, we are able to catch our breath (or allow the lake to catch it for us) as the reflections of the setting sun and clouds are mirrored to the sky. This has to be one of the ‘moments’ of the trip. We make it back to The Athabasca Hotel safely and prepare for ‘a big day’ tomorrow.

Friday. 7am on the coach and we make way for Athabasca Falls. A chilly and early start to the morning but it is made worth it when we see the sun rising above the mountain, shining through the trees and reflecting on the waterfall. Back on the bus and it’s time for breakfast at the Sunwapta Falls Lodge before hiking to the second waterfall, Sunwapta Falls, and then making our way to our next stop. Athabasca Glacier. The Columbia Icefield is the largest in the Rockies; the Athabasca Glacier is just one of the six principal ‘toes’ of the icefield. The glacier sits between the summits of Mount Columbia and Mount Athabasca. An unreal feeling as we step out of the Ice Explorer bus, initially in t-shirts and shorts and on to the ice. Feet sliding from left to right, and people falling over in front of us, we make it unscathed to the spot for a group photo and get to fly the Canadian Flag. We even stop to fill a bottle with fresh glacier water. Icefields Parkway – The Crossing Resort is our lunch stop and we both settle for ice-cream, with no real surprise. Opting to sit outside in the sun may have been an error as the ice-cream melted quicker than it could be eaten but it meant we were witness to the groups of motor bikers who came to stop by. It made perfect sense as to why they would enjoy riding on the vast stretches of open road on the highway between Jasper and Banff. Surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks, we are on the way to one of three lake stops. The first, Peyto Lake – with the top of the lake resembling a fox, complete with ears. Named after Bill Peyto, an early guide in the park back in the early 1900s. Peyto Lake sits at 1880m in elevation in the Canadian Rockies; and is fed by the Peyto glacier. Similar to many other glacier-fed lakes in Banff National Park, Peyto Lake is a brilliant blue during the summer months. This is a natural phenomenon found in many glacier lakes as the glaciers grind rock down into the rock flour, carried downstream into the lake. This rock flour then refracts the light and gives off a vivid blue or teal colour. Lake Louise is next, and there is a change in the weather, it begins to drizzle with rain just as we set foot off of the bus. Lake Louise was the third name given to the lake. It was first named Horâ Juthin Îmne (translating to lake of little fishes) by Stoney First Nations people that were the first inhabitants of the area. In 1882, a Stoney First Nations person led a Canadian railway worker named Tom Wilson to the lake. He named it Emerald Lake. Two years later, it was renamed Lake Louise after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta (1848-1939), the daughter of Queen Victoria. Louise was married to Marquis of Lorne, the Governor General of Canada from 1878-1883. Named after Queen Victoria in 1897, the Victoria Glacier continues to feed into Lake Louise and stands prominently as the backdrop to the lake. The final lake stop is Moraine Lake. Unbelievably beautiful, Moraine Lake is situated in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, surrounded by mountains, waterfalls, rock piles and forest. Photographs still don’t seem to be able to capture the beauty and serenity. A little emotionally tired, it takes a lot out of you to be constantly awed by the natural world around, we make it to Banff. After stopping at the grocery store to pick up breakfast for the next few days, we have time to re-arrange our Tunnel Mountain Lodge before shower and then dinner. A shuttle back into Banff town and we’ve already decided on our dinner venue for tonight. Park Distillery. A distillery serving campfire-inspired cuisine and glacier water spirits. We end the evening with a walk around the souvenir shops, buying Beavertails and walking back to the Tunnel Mountain Lodge, up a really big hill.